Antiaging Cosmetics Consumer Guide

Products effective against wrinkles and sagging, but don't expect miracles 
 
If Ponce de Leon were still alive, his search for the Fountain of Youth probably would end at a pharmacy or department store cosmetics counter where tiny jars and tubes promise to get rid of crow's-feet, laugh lines and other telltale signs of aging.  

Stores that once carried just a few selections of cold creams and moisturizers now offer a variety of anti-sagging creams, wrinkle correctors, line erasers and skin-firming lotions.
Each line of cosmetics generally has at least three products that promise younger-looking skin, giving shoppers at least 35 choices at most stores.

The good news is that dermatologists say these products work. They can reduce some lines, make skin a little firmer and stop some of the pollutants and sun rays that cause skin to age.

The bad news is that they aren't miracle cures.
"You can't take someone with deeper wrinkles, give them an alpha hydroxy cream and expect the wrinkles to vanish," said Dr. Mark Pomaransky, a dermatologist with the Henry Ford Health System.

But such products, if used consistently for at least a week, can help firm skin and visibly reduce lines, Pomaransky said.

"You'll see different results on different people," he said. "But you shouldn't expect overnight success."

Consumers should read past the big promises and examine the labels to see whether the product contains some of the ingredients scientifically proven to help skin look younger.
However, wading through shelves full of antiaging products can be overwhelming, and trying several of the products can be expensive.

At high-end salons, La Prarie Skin Caviar Luxe, a Swiss product, costs about $300 for a 7-ounce jar. Upscale department store cosmetic lines like Lancôme and Estee Lauder offer products that cost $50-$90 for 0.5- to 2.5-ounce jars and tubes. And even at discount stores and big pharmacies, some wrinkle-fighting creams from Roc or Oil of Olay cost $9-$19.

It's a big business that's steadily growing.
The market for luxury, antiaging products reached $354 million in 2000, according to Mark Brooks, director of NPD Beauty Trends of Port Washington, N.Y. It has grown 27 percent since 1997 when it was about $278 million. The market is up about 5 percent so far this year, compared with 2000.

Dermatologists and beauty industry experts say antiaging skin products have gained popularity in the last 4 years because:

• Americans are getting older. Census figures show that the number of Americans ages 45 to 54 grew by almost half over the last decade to just under 38 million.
• There's more information. Studies on health and medical breakthroughs are more accessible than ever, making people more aware of their health and appearance.
• New technology. Scientists have developed new skin-care products and updated existing ones to include ingredients that fight signs of aging.

What to do?
Though antiaging products can help, Pomaransky said the best thing anyone can do to keep skin looking young is to use sunscreen and stay out of the sun as much as possible.
"You can go out and buy expensive skin products, but it's all in vain if you don't protect your skin against the sun," he said.

Sun exposure, along with smoke and other pollutants, speeds up the natural aging process in which biochemical changes cause skin to lose the collagen and elastin that are the basis of its firmness and elasticity, according to the American Academy of Dermatology.
As skin becomes less elastic, it becomes drier and an underlying layer of fat padding begins to disappear. The loss of the firmness and support from the fat padding causes skin to sag, to become less supple and to wrinkle.

Some antiaging products contain antioxidants, which neutralize destructive molecules called free radicals, which cause aging. These harmful molecules come from exposure to sun, tobacco smoking and secondhand smoke, and environmental pollution. Vitamins C and E are typical antioxidants found in antiaging creams.

"Antiaging serums basically harness the free radicals," said Rachel Kane, a spokeswoman for the Prescriptives cosmetics line, which is owned by Estee Lauder. "Everyone's going to age; we try to stop it from moving as fast as it has to."

Vitamin C also can stimulate the skin's ability to create collagen, while Vitamin E helps lock in moisture.
Though these vitamins work in theory, Pomaransky said, "There still aren't studies that cement that."

And vitamin-based products tend to lose their potency when they are exposed to light and air, he said. That's why most antiaging creams and lotions come in small jars that don't let light in.

Antiaging products also contain retinol, a mild, over-the-counter topical Vitamin A acid. Originally developed to fight acne, retinol helps skin cells replicate. According to skin experts, retinol helps skin by reducing wrinkles, smoothing out color and helping to repair sun damage.

Retinol can irritate skin, particularly when exposed to sun.
And hydroxy acids, derived from fruits, milk and sugarcane, penetrate the top layers of the skin to slough of old cells, which tend to stick together and lead to wrinkles.
Sloughing off old cells stimulates the skin and generates healthy cells. The skin is left smoother, softer and with less discoloration.

Shoppers should look for antiaging products that contain some form of hydroxy acid, antioxidant or retinol -- three of the most common age-fighting ingredients found in products sold over the counter, Pomaranksy said.

Unfortunately, it's nearly impossible for shoppers to tell how much of the ingredients are found in each of the products because there are no requirements for listing concentration levels. Pricier products might have more of a particular ingredient, but higher prices don't necessarily translate into more effectiveness, he said.

"What I tell patients is to find a regimen that's easy for them to follow and they can afford," Pomaransky said.

The daily regimen should start with a cleanser to get rid of oils and bacteria and should include a moisturizer. He said the routine should start in the teenage years and continue throughout a person's life. "As you grow older and start to see the effects of smoke and pollution, you may want to add more products to their armaments."

Pomaransky also said people should use the products within a few months because they often lose effectiveness with time and light exposure. "You don't want to have 15 products on your counter for 5 years," he said.